Day 2 Pizzo - Badolato

Sundays are still Sundays in Italy. Shops are closed, people go to church, families meet for lunch or do a 'passegata' together. So do we.

That Sunday we decided to meet at 11 am at the bar in piazza, Angelo would drive by, we hop in the car and off we go. On my wish list was Badolato - ever since I came across 'bleeding espresso' and Michele's stories about her alternative life in a medieval Calabrian village.

Angelo said, they would know a 'trattoria typica' and - because during their last trip to Badolato not a single table had been available during lunch - he would book a table.

We drove across the Calabrian hinterland and along the coast of Soverato. After about 1 1/2 h drive from Pizzo, we reached Badolato. The medieval village, famous for being abandoned (the village was "on sale" in the 80 ies to attract new residents) is nestled on top of a green hill, out of reach from any conquerors landing on the Ionian Coast.

We drove around a curve, and there it was. A breathtaking sleeping beauty. I think, I had tears in my eyes, so overwhelming is Badolato's appearance and its church Immaculata, a stairways below the village.

We arrived a bit too early for lunch and strolled around the narrow alleys. There have been some significant renovations. Foreigners, sometimes returning younger generations and Italians from other regions have invested here and made this village their home.

We had a nice family lunch at 'Le Botte'. I said to Angelo, it would have not been necessary to book the entire restaurant for us - as we were the only customers on that Sunday after Easter.

It was a beautiful day. And we bought the Badolato guide from Franco, the photographer from Genova who calls Badolato his home for many years. His photos of the 'Settimana Santa' are showing impressive processions in traditional costumes in this medieval setting before and during Easter. This would be definitely a great time of the year to visit this magical village. But when in Calabria, any time is good to stop here for a couple of hours. We learned that Badolato counts 12 churches its own - two more than Pizzo!

On our way back home we had initially thought of stopping in Soverato. But then decided to keep that sea side town for another day.

Pizzo in April

"Questo mare e pieno di voci e questo cielo e pieno di visioni"

 - Pizzo Marina

We had a wonderful time in Pizzo this April. The first days, it was rainy and cold, and when the wind blows it feels even much colder. But after a few days the sun came out and spring was back. Without wind it then feels even warmer! We enjoyed lovely 20 degrees and up.

Everyday we saw people at the beach, even locals were sunbathing, and of course the usual crazy tourists from the Northern Europe who jump fearless in the beautiful clear turquoise but ice cold sea. Our son was one of them. With lots of aaah and iiihh screams he bravely swam at Pizzo Marina and even at La Seggiola, where the water was cleaner than ever without the usual little fishing boats around.

We enjoyed relaxing days in Pizzo, cleaning and ventilating the house, eating at la Nonna's house, trying the first

tartufo

ice cream of the season, inviting friends for dinner, reading books, spending a great time with visitors from Germany, going on little excursions, opening the boating season, buying local olive oil, making new friends, and participating in the Holy Week's Easter Processions.

We also went fishing, but the kids realised that they don't want to kill any of the caught fishes. We had to liberate the poor creatures (to my content) or the children would not touch any cooked or grilled fish at dinner. :-)

rainy April days in Pizzo

harbour project is still on ice ...

Spring in Calabria with little yellow flowers and olive trees

brave kids swimming at la Seggiola and Pizzo Marina

a reading session in the warm sun - warmer than inside the house!

a morning walk to the

commune

and stunning view of Pizzo from above

discovering a new great little restaurant in piazza: Il Cappero Rosso

best pizza in town at Il Cappero Rosso (photo: "Pizza Nera")

Beneditione

on Palm Sunday in piazza

most impressive the

'Affrundata

procession on Holy Thursday night from Dome San Giorgio to Chiesa San Sebastiano in Pizzo, centro storico

bye bye Calabria - with window seats on the left we spotted Capri and Ischia and Ostia antica near Rome. On a clear day, the vulcanos Stromboli and Etna (Sicily) can be seen as well.

During our stay in Pizzo, I posted on

our Facebook page

some more photos and videos. Check it out if you like. - One more month and we will be back in town! A presto!

Spring in Pizzo

As time goes by, I realised, I have not posted much about our "spring break" in Pizzo last April.

I summarized our special April 

here

 though, but with only one photo - and even those entries from our 

Facebook page

seem not enough to cover our impressions.

You remember, how we arrived at the airport and drove to Pizzo, encountering goats on the way? If not, have a look

here

.

So here they come, more visual impressions from spring in Pizzo:

I like Calabria for its crystal clear sea. But during those April days, the sea appeared to be even more clear. So clear, that the fishing boat seemed floating in air.

Marina Beach empty in April

I hardly saw any Italian kids playing on the beach those days, even after school and on weekends.

Niente bambini

. Maybe it is when you have it in front of your door step that it is less interesting? Or maybe Italian kids don't want (should not) get dirty? A "

bella figura

" thing? Or is the beach only for swimming in summer? Anyway, our son couldn't be stopped to dig holes whenever we passed the beach.

digging sand holes

One day, I observed the clouds in a distance and I saw that they have a shadow on the water. I was pretty fascinated of that sight and took a dozen pictures. Not sure if you see what I mean. I like the reflections a lot. All kind of reflection on water I like a lot.

stunning reflections

There is not much else to observe from the balcony aside some fishermen passing by in rowing boats. I wonder if those two with their relatively large net just fish for their family dinner, or maybe for a restaurant?

fishermen at work

I think I was on the balcony all afternoon that day - just enjoying the beauty of nature - until the sun set above Stromboli, the volcano in the distance.

sunset above Stromboli

Another day, while reading on the sofa, I had to constantly look at our beautiful ceiling with its faded fresco. (I should say manually recovered fresco). I like it so much, I took those pictures below. And we finally ordered two ceiling fans for the empty spots (no lights, enough of those).

part of the living room

ceiling with recovered faded fresco

Beside sitting on the balcony and reading on the sofa, I have also been drawing a bit:

agrume

, pears and oranges

 And I played tennis!

When my friend asked me to join her playing tennis, I discovered that Pizzo has a "Center Court"! So funny, the door is seriously locked, no one has a key. But the fence's hole on the side is so big, that it seems now to me that there was no fence on the side... and they even have a grandstand! I promised to practice to join the match in summer (I have not been playing for over 20 years!) It will be fun! 

Pizzo's "Center Court"

This time, we often had lunch in piazza. It was just too beautiful - warm sunshine and very few tourists. The church bells ringing at noon and the organ play (I posted a few seconds of this sneak peek into

paradise on Facebook

). I can't describe in words this special moment of the day. Absolutely peaceful. - We saw the school bus coming, parents picking up their kids. We met the locals and really felt like

Pizzitani

our self. So, instead of having a tomato salad and a pasta at home, we had a salad, or a pizza, or a pasta or

cozze

at one of the small restaurants in piazza.

And yes, we also - sometimes - indulged in tarfuffo ice cream as well.

invented in Pizzo:

il tartuffo nero

The scent of oranges was in the air, everywhere. It smells sweet like jasmine. Very intense.

sweet scent of oranges from the neighbour's garden

The neighbour's garden seen from our guestroom (photo below). A red and white band from the street construction was blown into the trees. The commune of Pizzo is restoring the old street pavement in the historic town center. But this will be another post.

neighbour's garden and street work in progress

--- 

I found too many photos to post. 

I have to split them up into more stories, like street work progress, prima communione, Signora Rosa, Catanzaro. Stay in touch! 

Until soon.

Saluti!

Summer Feelings in a special April

from left: pranzo in piazza, castle and beach,  fruit scetch

This April, the weather in Pizzo is much more gentle than last year. When the sun is shining, and it has been shining every single day for the last ten days - it feels like summer!

We all agree, that for us it feels more special being in Pizzo in April, than in summer. 

There are only few tourists around. The

Pizzitani

are among themselves. Including us! We feel more like

Pizzitani

, inhabitants of Pizzo, now, in April, when socializing with the locals seems effortless.

People have time to talk. You don't wait two hours for a pizza (ok, that happened only once in August). And the

piazza 

and

gelati

are even more enjoyable. 

The beaches are empty. You can sun bath and kids can dig holes all over the place. However, the sea is yet too cold for a swim. Even the weatherproof Brits would only bath their feet. 

This April was also special for us, since we had planned a lunch with family and friends for a belated celebration of our son's first communion. When we met in the church San Giorgio on that Sunday, an unexpected small and very special ceremony was organized for us.

Now, our stay is almost over. But no one wants to leave!! It was our best April ever!

We had not much to do in the house. Mission accomplished. Just "bonding" with the house and enjoying  :-)

It's always sad to say good-bye. But the comfort is that summer is near. And with it a very long summer holidays around the corner that we will spend in this

Bel Paese

!

As soon as I have a computer and Internet (not just a smart phone) available, I will post some more. For now, please visit us on

Facebook

for more pics.

Ciao e a presto!

---

PS: I merged the the above photo with the text again. Somehow when you upload a post via email, the text that you write before the photo will appear in the post behind the photo (as I like it), but the text behind the photo does not appear. When I tried to add the missing text, I accidentally deleted the photo. Apparently you can now add photos from your phone to your post via Google+. I downloaded the app, but did not manage. Also, I am a bit reluctant to too much Google services.